Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Diary of a Dress..PT 2 Kathleen Marie Couture's John Galliano~Christian Dior Couture Tribute Gown

Dear Friends,

I have tried to document the process of making a masterpiece!
This gown is dedicated to John Galliano and the House of Dior... He was such a huge inspiration to me as an artist and designer.

Inspiration: Dior, my ballet pink portieres from my new studio, Haute Couture
and the grandeur there of...

As seen in the previous post, I sketched a facsimile,
of the silhouette I was hoping to create.
As you can see by the sketch, the gown has a corset style bodice with ornamentation,
full tulle skirt, and sleeves.
I then added miscellanous styling details...
( please refer back if you need to).

Now, On With The Show!!!

Figure 1- Assistants and Support Crew!

You MUST have the right assistants. This is imperative! The have to be loyal, supportive,
sweet, yet independent. Please meet my two assistants. ( who are anxious to get started!)
left- Mr. P right- Princess Lulu

Figure 2- The right materials!

I like to stockpile materials. Like ammo. Its your best weapon against mediocrity.
I find it helps negate that 'contrived' feeling, that you can always pick out in
mass market gowns, and even at NYC fashion week shows!
This is HAUTE COUTURE Hudson Valley Style, so let's Bring It!

1- Vintage French velvet ribbon in red and redder
2- Vintage 'antique satin' in dusty peach pink. These were old 'portieres' ( draperies)
and I washed and distressed the fabric
3-Black medium weight 'siri' woven interfacing. Great for backing and supporting fabrics for more body and strength.
4-White medium/heavy weight 'haroform' woven interfacing. Very stable, sized interfacing. Again, great for structure and support, esp of corset style bodices.
5-Netting. Stiff 'diamond' net. I ended up using an entire ROLL of this for the petticoat, which I pleated.
6- French Alencon Re-Embroidered Lace, re-embroidered and beaded. With a touch of
gorgeous ballet pink to it. For ornamentation

Not pictured- My 3 bolts of tulle for the over skirt, and the dusty pink Bengaline
I used as the petticoat.

Figure 3- Pleats Please.

Pleating the Petticoat. Since I wanted an 18th century pannier style fullness,
I did not place ruffles all around the petticoat. I focused the volume on the sides.

Figure 4- I Stand Alone Amongst My Contemporaries.

Yes, The petticoat has around 50 yards of ruffles. And Yes, It stands up by itself !!!

Coming soon... Part 3 Diary of a Dress with Kathleen Marie Couture!!